Getting to the top boot cowl install, and the frame for the instrument panel is so badly twisted that even with the instrument panel clecoed to it as per the instructions, it is still close to an inch out of being a flat surface. The sole source of the twist appears to be the formed inner flange not being bent all the way to 90*
Obviously this is raising havoc with trying to get the top center, and sides of the boot cowl clecoed to the instrument panel frame.
Considering that not only the top skin, but also the instrument panel visor will be riveted to the panel frame, thus providing a lot of strength to the frame, is it OK to cut notches in the inner flange of the panel frame to relax some of the twist?? Or, simply remove the inner flange in the area of the top curved section??
OK, to close the loop on this ---- got the OK from Michelle to cut the inner flange.
Everything lined up fine after that---zero straightening needed after removing the flange.
Now------installing the panel visor. Looks to be a pain, as tight as the boot cowl fits the additional thickness of the visor looks like it will require a big hammer or removing material at the ends of the visor.
Any advice?
First of all, after almost 30 years of RV, this ain’t an RV.
Second don’t start trying to get the frame to lay flat.
I went through the same thing.
Get a bunch of clecos and just start putting the boot cowl together. First with #40 then drill out to #30.
It is important to get all those little tabs of the frame in line with the fire wall.
You will find that everything fits fairly nice
The only thing that was a real issue was the seam from the top to side.
Find a slip roller and some one that knows how to use it.
Rather than a harsh angle you end up with a nice transition.
Please contact me at firebird_mwl@msn.com if you need more help.
I seriously doubt I could move the inner flange adequately ------ this is some pretty strong stuff. Also, as the flange is bent closer to 90* it needs to stretch in the curved area at the top of the panel.
Actually, if I had a metal stretcher I could most likely force the frame flat by stretching the inner flange.
I do not think the inner flange is even needed after all is riveted together, there should be plenty of support and strength from the boot cowl top skin, and panel visor-----and the panel itself.
My RV 10 only had a top tab and the flat surface where the panel mounted, no issue with a built in twist.
Not seeing what the issue is and I dont have the book in front of me but cant you just form the edge to 90 deg..usually done with a block of wood and a block behind it or pull the frame out and put it on a flat bench and tap the edges by sliding a wood block across a flat bench that you have the frame on and tap the edges to the 90 deg you need.