Yes Mike, don't forget your pro-seal :-)

Hello Monte, yes, the supports need to be trimmed. I don't see an issue with using AAPQ-42's.

Yes we did, the brand we used stood up quite

Hi m.whiting, the bed liner is used on the fuselage side, nothing is used on the engine side.

Only the bottom longeron is the issue, the middle and top go exactly as outlined in the

It really depends on how your cage fits the tailcone, recently I've done three sandwiched but the one I'm working on at the moment will be the same way as shown in the video. When you are initially fitting the cage tabs into the tailcone area, you can see if the tabs will be a tight enough fit that you will have to sandwich them, or if they are a bit loose, you will be able to fit doublers right up against the longerons as in the video.

I'm not sure Darrell, I'm not at the factory right now, but I will check tomorrow

Hi Darrell, that is the end that goes to the wing.

Glad we could help!

Looks good Darrell! I do something similar with the vertical stab, I'll post about it as soon as I build my next one.

Skins on and ready to drill into spars.

If needed, place sandbags on the corners during skinning to ensure the structure is always contacting the supports. You will be rewarded with a straight Horizontal Stabilizer.

Knowing you have perfectly straight supports, you can flip the structure around during the skinning process and as long as it is contacting the supports, you will know it is straight. I wanted to show the assembly without the skins for clarity, but the idea is to use this throughout the drilling and riveting of the skins to spars and structure. The 3" height allows clearance for clecos on the underside.

Step number 3 is to level the angles or support pieces to ensure they are perfectly parallel to each other. Thin aluminum works well, even playing cards would work.

Step number 2 is to set the supports on your workbench at the proper location, you want the edge of the angle to line up with each spar, this way when you have riveted one side, the rivet head will be over the angle and still produce a level surface.

Hi Bryant, the rudder should move freely, you don't want tension, it should at least swing back easily if deflected, but with no slop, hope this makes sense