Mjstarkey48, Sorry for the slow response! It sounds like we sent you the incorrect part. We stock that size of retainer as well with a similar part number. Please contact air tech so we can correct our mistake. Thanks and happy building! Thanks, Ryan

M.whiting, The holes in the spar are intentionally undersized to allow for slight misalignment. You should have no issue transfer drilling the spar through the skin. Hope this helps and happy building! Thanks, Ryan

M.Whiting, Running a #11 reamer through the bushings should fix your issue. I suggest testing a bolt through all your bushings after being pressed into the hinges. This will save you some hassle when you go to hang the various parts. Hope this helps and happy building! Thanks, Ryan

Darrell, The factory build pictures are outdated. We initially used those large head pop rivets to attach the baffle seal to the baffles. We had several issues with this method and decided to go with the attach strips. Pictures will be updated soon. Hope this helps and happy building! Thanks, Ryan

M. Whiting, Yes, I would recommend replacing the uneven rivet. That is a more difficult place to drill and replace since you cannot reach in to support the flange. Make sure you drive the mandrel down to accommodate easy drilling, use a sharp bit and drill slowly. Before you pull the new rivet make sure the skins are snug to each other and there are no chips in between the layers. Hope this helps! Thanks, Ryan

Gjmanzie, The nutplate holes will end up accepting the rudder pedals and control sticks. as for the rivets holding the other areas of the floorboards its not an issue. there is minimal reasons for the floorboard to ever be removed. Hope this helps. Thanks, Ryan

Ryan, The manual shows correctly there is no washer required under the top rudder horn mount bolt. Thanks, Ryan

m.whititng, You have assumed correctly. The holes are left undersized intentionally to allow for any slight deviation in the rudder where it is a welded part. You need to up size one hole to number 11, pin the rudder horn and then use the rudder horn as a drill guide to up size the second hole. Manuals will be updated soon to elaborate on this process. Thanks for bringing it to our attention. Hope this helps and happy building! Thanks, Ryan

Ryan, Yes, the nose ribs of the vertical were revised in July of 2019. The nose was removed from these ribs so allow better fitment of the skin. Hope this helps! Thanks, Ryan

m.whiting, Replacement of the rib and skin will not be necessary. The proper fix is to up size the hole and pull the next size rivet. There are several over sized rivet options out there. Hope this helps. Thanks, Ryan

Thomas, The decibels both engines produce are actually very similar. The difference between the two is frequency. I have flown behind both engines and both provide a comfortable cabin volume. The 915's we have in service have been performing well, the only drawback is managing intake air temp! Thanks, Ryan

Darrell, Below are a few pictures of how we route the coax from the CDI boxes to the ignition coils. Note: The wires have been ran but the spades have not been crimped on yet and secured in place! Hope this helps. Thanks, Ryan

Darrell, It is normal to take much more off the front end of the T-Bone than the aft side. Triple check your measurements before cutting though! I like to cut under the final line and file to the final dimension. Hope this helps! Thanks, Ryan

Stanley, You are welcome! The process is fairly simple. I like to disconnect the oil lines and cap them to keep contamination out of the system. Remove the tank cap and filter assembly and set aside to clean. Wipe all the oil sludge from the can. Make sure the oil bottle is reassembled properly and then purge the oil system. The reference for purging the oil system is directly after the oil bottle cleaning section in the Rotax line maintenance manual. Feel free to ask any more questions as they arise. Thanks, Ryan

Hey Stanley, You heard correctly. Rotax calls out on the 912 ULS for the oil bottle to be cleaned every 200 hours. The procedure is called out in the 912 line maintenance manual, Chapter 12-20-00 section 11.5. This process is a little more difficult on the S-7S because you cannot remove the bottle from the firewall because it is encased by the engine mount. The task can still be accomplished, you just have to do all the steps with the bottle in its mount. Thanks, Ryan

Hey Bryant! All holes should be debured. Thanks, Ryan

Hey Darrell, The aluminum section of the baffles do no contact the cowling. The rubber baffle seal is riveted to the aluminum sections and is trimmed for fit to the cowling. Those front nostrils are fairly tight. You will end up trimming the flange of the nostil to allow the rubber seal to make the joggle. To start I only trim enough of the flange to allow the cowling to sit down in place. one the cowling is in its final position you can final trim the flanges. Thanks, Ryan

Hello Darrel, I have attached a picture of how the safety is done here at the factory. Sorry the picture isn't the greatest with the cowling on. I believe it is still enough to get you through, if not post here again and ill take another picture when i have the cowling off. The cable ferrule comes with two plain nuts. use the smaller of the two.

Darrell, Titan also has the leads. Happy building. Thanks, Ryan Hillman