@mjstarkey48 could not agree with you more. Started with a setup similar to you but gave up. Ended up getting help from a good friend and master aircraft mechanic. Also a metal Wizard. The ribs turned out well. Of course the right tools help also. That’s Steve Pierce, Well known in the Fat Tire community as the Super Cub expert

Talked to Randy. An adjustment to wing incidence may be required if you are using the Titan 340 Whirlwind combination. The newer aft spar attach doubler appears to come with three holes for that. And revision B to the text manual reflects additional instructions. For us with the original hardware, the latest newsletter spells out a fix. Randy assures me there is sufficient edge distance. My plan is to test fly first then make adjustments one at a time. VERY IMPORTANT NOTE 5/16 inch Bolt: Orientation of the bolt is now opposite of the original instructions. The nut goes outboard. This will make the bracket removal much easier. Please correct me if I am wrong. In my case I could end up with 4 holes in the aft spar attachment.

No not yet. Have a way to go to first flight. But 30 years experience with RVs and Lycomings (or clones) I see the need for improvements. I have #34 kit.

It’s not complete yet. I was not satisfied with with the fit or design. I have been working with the Cubcrafters Super Cub series With basically the same Titan set up. They got very aggressive on increasing the volumetric air flow with some success. I am in the process of enlarging the intakes, adding inlet ramps to the top cowl and maybe a lip to the lower with an increase in exit area.

Thanks Ryan

Hello Peter, No. You do not need to countersink the tips of the rivet gun. Just make sure you use the correct tip for the stem diameter. Cheers from Texas

You bet it does help Ryan. Thanks

Thanks Eddie. Is this something I overlooked in one of the manuals? 😁

Great presentation Ed. Should be a big help. I built two end jigs from 3/4 inch MDF board. Note that there is one 3/16 bolt and a large 3/16 cleco that acts as a pin. The entire stab can be flipped by removing the pin.

Give me a call at 817.694.8880.

Ok I got it. I made the gross assumption there would not be much trimming. Boy was I wrong. Just follow instructions and it should work out fine.

Thanks Ryan. Clears that up.

JB said it would be easier to get it from Lightspeed otherwise would need to go through Avial.

Looks like another 26 inch would work. I’ll order one from LightSpeed.

Thanks Tony, The more I thought about it I decided to go with a serviceable filter and not have to de-fuel the S-21 just to change the fuel filter. Added a shut off valve from Russel and a filter from Sumit Racing.

Mike I had the same problem. Confirmed at the 2019 flyin the brake line goes in the groove behind the bolt. Went home, pulled out the low wing jacks. The 7/16 bolt head on each main gear makes for a great jack point. Remove the aft 5/16 bolt just enough to get the brake line in the groove.

Sure. Besides paint how about ease of installing everything forward of the door post. Better wording may be, “Do not permanently attach the boot cowl until just about everything is installed forward of the door post”. For example I am doing the fit up of interior panels this morning. Without the boot cowl installed there is plenty of space to work without being a contortionist and lose of time.

It’s about painting parts then assembly. For a one man operation and type of aircraft, boot cowl last is easiest. The point in the text manual where it says to paint the fuselage is a great time to do so. The fuselage is still light enough to move around on a rotisserie. If planning to paint yourself it’s the way to go.

Mark, This is a photo of one way I solved the storage problem. The big flat box is just a bit oversized of the wing skins. Assuming the Rans did not change the dimensions. I emptied the box and set it in the wing rack. The wing rack was left over from another project. Pulled out the various skins when needed. Did not take up much room. Don’t trash those large pieces of cardboard, they come in real handy.

Figured it out. The two blue fittings on the pump are not AN816. No ”AN” marking. AN816 fittings are pipe thread not straight thread. Remove the AN look alike from the pump. Carefully transfer the “O” ring to the blue fitting on the prefilter. (No idea what the “DT” marking on the blue fitting means). Then everything fits well. All matching straight threads. I’ll trim the mounting plate so everything lines up. 😎