@Darrell Morgan Yep, having the right tools is nice. Glad you got your ribs to work.

One more thing, IMHO this should be the #1 site for getting answers to Rans questions, but it seems to be almost totally unused. Rans Clan, and the F/B sites are helpful, but this forum should be the go to location ------ too bad your post went almost a full day without any factory reply. Rant off.

We did it by making a bending jig from the airfoil shaped cutout left over from doing the wingtip gluing board. Initially I tried the 12" radius speced on page 127, item 4 of the current online text manual. This probed to be too large of a radius to make any useful corrections. I cut the front 9" or so off the airfoil shape scrap and mounted it to another piece of scrap a foot or so wide, and around two feet long. Then I mounted a holding block next to that to capture the end of the rib. I was able to relocate the capture block as needed to get a different radius for different areas of the rib. I found that I had better luck working from the tail of the rib toward the nose, gave me better leverage. When all is said and done, you will not get the very front to match. I spoke with Randy about this, and he said it was normal. Would like to put up a photo of the bending jig, but have not had any luck with trying to do so. I can send you one via email if you want. mjstarkey 4 8 at gmail dot com

Ryan, already got correct parts off Amazon. No need for me to contact Rans about these. Hopefully this will help someone in the future if they get the wrong clamps.

Well, just to close the loop on this-----I bought a couple 30 series clamps off Amazon, and they fit correctly.

"And you're finished" What, no proseal?

Thanks Darrell, that is the only thing that makes sense to me. I did go ahead and remove the bolts and put the lines in the gear as per your photo. However, my brake line is at least 3" longer than the one in your photo-----I had to turn it back almost 180* and re-drill a new hole for the bulkhead fitting to get everything to fit inside the bottom fairing and clear the header tank, and aileron cable. At this time, methinks they gave me a taildragger brake line instead of the correct shorter one for a trike. On another note, the fuse bottom fairings appears to have been labeled wrong. I ended up switching sides, that way I could get the gear leg in the center of the fairing, and get the bend of the fuse side to match the fairing. Once again, thanks for answering here----it seems that this forum is not getting much action. Nowhere as much as I would expect from an "official" factory site devoted to the building of these planes. Mike

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/vhb-tapes-us/

OK, to close the loop on this ---- got the OK from Michelle to cut the inner flange. Everything lined up fine after that---zero straightening needed after removing the flange. Now------installing the panel visor. Looks to be a pain, as tight as the boot cowl fits the additional thickness of the visor looks like it will require a big hammer or removing material at the ends of the visor. Any advice?

I seriously doubt I could move the inner flange adequately ------ this is some pretty strong stuff. Also, as the flange is bent closer to 90* it needs to stretch in the curved area at the top of the panel. Actually, if I had a metal stretcher I could most likely force the frame flat by stretching the inner flange. I do not think the inner flange is even needed after all is riveted together, there should be plenty of support and strength from the boot cowl top skin, and panel visor-----and the panel itself. My RV 10 only had a top tab and the flat surface where the panel mounted, no issue with a built in twist.

Thanks, ----- tell Randy you deserve a raise for excellence in customer care :)

Upper tailcone forward, the ones with the small triangular window------and very few pre drilled rivet holes. Seems that this particular part needs a lot of work to get fitted correctly.

We used Sched 40 PVC-----OD was just under the 1.25" callout, as I recall the nominal pipe size was 1". I would suggest you practice on some scrap if you happen to have any laying around. We transfer drilled and clecoed every hole from the skin to the pipe, used a couple Phillips screwdrivers as handles to twist the pipe. You need to start with the skin upside down on the bench, clecos down. It is good to have a couple helpers, one on each end to twist, one in middle to keep the whole thing from bowing up as it is twisted. We found rolling a complete half turn --- 180* --- gave us a pretty good finished 90* bend after the material sprung back.

Thanks, sent Michelle an email about the lenses. Appreciate all the videos---helps to make sense of some areas of the build.

Is the lens available by itself? What are the dimensions of the cutout? Any idea of cost?

Lid??? No lid, as the rivets were in a big baggie with other baggies of rivets.

Thanks for posting the photos, I will be installing something similar in the next couple days. Is that a Gretz mount?