Anybody come up with a good way to safety wire the lower Allen head bolts in the stab incidence adjustment blocks??

My clamps for the Teleflex control cable to operate the flaps seems to be too large. These are for the end of the cable where it mounts to the flap handle. With the bolts tightened down, the entire cable end just falls out of the clamp. Clamp measures apx .500", and cable is .375" It appears the clamps are for a 40 or 60 series cable, but the one supplied is a 30 series. Is this a know issue, or am I missing something here??

The text manual on page 85 details installing the brake system. In item 1, it says the fuse should be on the main gear. It must be assumed that the bolts holding the gear on are already installed. In item 9, it says to press the brake line into the groove in the aft side of the gear leg. Question------do I remove the aft bolt holding the gear in place, install the brake line in the groove then replace the bolt, or does the brake line go to the outside of the bolt??? The detail for the belly fairing (figure 08-01) does not show any clearance or hole to accommodate the brake line if it is not in the gear leg groove, only an opening to allow the gear leg itself. Guidance please.

In the S21 progress report # 27 there is talk of an Assembly Alert for using VHB tape to install the lexan to the door frames. However, when I search for the assembly alert -----no joy. My kit did include the VHB tape, but there are no instructions on where to use it. It does not look like there is enough to do the entire perimeter of the door and the center seams, so I am wondering if it is only for the center seam. Or, anywhere the lexan meets the door frame? Guidance please.

The instructions for installing the black 35" push/pull (KPCS0268) tube into the large alum tube going to the elevator (KPCS0305) are pretty devoid of detail. The cross tube on the 35" P/P tube obviously needs to be trimmed to fit into the big tube and its internal doubler------but it is not clear if the assembly is designed to allow for motion between the two tubes. For allowing movement, the cross tube (where the 1/4" bolt goes) should have a slight clearance inside the large alum tube, and should have square cut ends. If this joining of the two tubes is designed to be ridged, I would look for minimum clearance, and a radius end for the cross tube. Guidance please...........

The short pieces of tube that are used for elevator stops are binding up on the paint on the 36" push/pull rod. Instead of removing the paint, is it OK to split the stop and gently spread it out so it will fit on the P/P tube?? Only split the part, not cut into two pieces. I do not want to have to remove the paint, then remove and repaint the assembly after getting it all installed and correctly setting the stops. If I do so, I would use two rivets per stop to make sure things are solidly attached when setting the stops.

Getting to the top boot cowl install, and the frame for the instrument panel is so badly twisted that even with the instrument panel clecoed to it as per the instructions, it is still close to an inch out of being a flat surface. The sole source of the twist appears to be the formed inner flange not being bent all the way to 90* Obviously this is raising havoc with trying to get the top center, and sides of the boot cowl clecoed to the instrument panel frame. Considering that not only the top skin, but also the instrument panel visor will be riveted to the panel frame, thus providing a lot of strength to the frame, is it OK to cut notches in the inner flange of the panel frame to relax some of the twist?? Or, simply remove the inner flange in the area of the top curved section??

Sure would be nice if you made a video for installing the upper/forward side skins. The written instructions are a bit lacking at times.

We just assembled the bulkheads yesterday-------the first 3, the ones that come in two pieces and are spliced together, were pretty twisted and far from flat. It appears that the inner flange area is the big problem, distorted the main web area of the bulkhead pretty badly. I can force the outer flange area to lay flat on the bench, but that only makes the inner flange area twist more. Not sure if I need to straighten/flatten these prior to installation or if they will pull into position and the fuse skin will hold things in alignment just fine. I have tried fluting what areas that need shrinking to bring things straight/flat, but most of the issue seems to be that I need to stretch the inner flange------and I do not have a stretcher. Do you do anything about the bulkheads, or just install and force things into position as you go? If you did straighten/flatten them, any hints for me? Thanks, Mike

Getting ready to rivet the top skin to the leading edge, parts manual call out is for CCC42 rivets, but none in the big ole bag of rivets. There was a bag of SSK42SSBS rivets that appear to be the correct substitute, but I can not find any documentation to confirm this. Anybody able to confirm this is in fact the correct rivet------and is there a list available of rivet substitution numbers??? My buddy Mr. Google failed me when looking for a conversion chart from one manufacturer to another :(